Tag Archives: Sandy Feet

The Ababcos and Weather Part 2

On leaving Turtle Cay we had a tip that we may find wild dolphins that are used to human interaction off the Eastern outer reefs. We took Sandy Feet out and around some slightly treacherous reef but had no luck with finding any dolphins. We did however find some of the best coral bombies and reef caves of the whole trip to date and spent some amazing hours exploring the area.

Snorkelling from Sandy Feet on the outer reefs.
Snorkelling from Sandy Feet on the outer reefs.
Exploring the outer reefs.
Exploring the outer reefs.
Some of the beautiful coral on the East side of Green Turtle Cay.
Some of the beautiful coral on the East side of Green Turtle Cay.

Whilst walking around Green Turtle we saw a notice board that was asking for any passing yachts to drop some food for the wild pigs on the next island, No Name Cay. This of course piqued our interest and so we came back inside the reef and found a beautiful anchorage off No Name Cay in some incredibly clear water.

Anchorage at No Name Cay.
Anchorage at No Name Cay.

Sure enough as soon as we approached the beach in our dinghy we were greeted by a large sow who had no hesitation in swimming out to us when we didn’t land quickly enough. She was fairly intimidating and we had been warned that these pigs bite so it was with a fair amount of caution that I got into the water to get some photos of her swimming. Luckily we had a box of cereals (which everyone hated) to keep her distracted as well as a bunch of vegetables and apples. Once on the beach her litter turned up and the girls got their baby animal fix.

Greetings human!
Greetings human!
"Food Please"
“Food Please”

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Swimming Pigs!!!
Swimming Pigs!!!

We ended up really loving No Name Cay and the planned over-night stop turned into several days. There is a really interesting lagoon, the entrance being so shallow and narrow you’d quite easily pass by without noticing but it opens up into a beautiful bay teeming with life including Turtles, Sharks and loads of Fish. At the Southern end of the Cay is a narrow reef opening called Whale Passage where we discovered some more amazing snorkelling.

Exploring the Lagoon at No Name Cay.
Exploring the Lagoon at No Name Cay.
Bicycle Reef.
Bicycle Reef.
Finishing another amazing day in the water.
Finishing another amazing day in the water.

In the end necessity forced us onwards, we had the looming disaster of running out of cooking gas  and stocks of fresh fruit and veg had been decimated by the pig encounters  so it was on to one of the biggest settlements in the Bahamas, Marsh Harbour.

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Sailing to Marsh Harbour via Whale Passage.

We always have mixed feelings when going into the larger settlements. After being in remote anchorages with only one or two other boats a larger town is an assault on the senses. The threads of everyday life catch up again with decent internet and it feels like Christmas when you walk into a well stoked supermarket as opposed to the two shelf island shops but after a couple of days we really feel the need to move on again and get back to the serenity of sailing and quiet islands.

Marsh Harbour by night as we slowly spin on our anchor.
Marsh Harbour by night as we slowly spin on our anchor.
Sunset in Marsh Harbour.
Sunset in Marsh Harbour.

Amongst the regular routines on the boat, one of the most important is watching the weather. This is usually something done over breakfast where we download data from a number of sources and compare them to our own observations. There are a few different computer models that forecasters use and they can be surprisingly different in their predictions. As we were now approaching the official start of Hurricane Season we watching them all and from the long term forecasts and the very unstable skies it became obvious that something was on the way. Marsh Harbour is ok to shelter from a storm but very open to the West so we decided to check out some other spots in the days before the weather was due to worsen. One of the best candidates was Man of War Cay which has an almost completely enclosed lagoon. The entrance is not much wider than Sandy Feet but a doozie compared to our experience at Xanadu -Grand Bahama. Inside it was crowded moorings yet deserted with no one on the boats. The place had a distinctly “Deliverance” feel to it and with banjo music playing in our heads we made a hasty retreat.

Negotiating the rather narrow entrance at Man of War Cay.
Negotiating the rather narrow entrance at Man of War Cay.

Back at Marsh Harbour we met a German sailor who said we should checkout Treasure Cay as that’s where he was heading and he had kids onboard who were DESPERATE for some contact with other kids. The next day the wind was up quite a bit but we decided to go anyway and had a boisterous sail upwind to Treasure Cay with a snorkelling stop at a tiny scrap of an island on the way. Treasure Cay turned out to have an excellent very protected anchorage  with a world heritage listed beach nearby.

Cocoa Beach, World Heritage listed for its amazing colours.
Cocoa Beach, World Heritage listed for its amazing colours.
Some much needed kid time. You can easily spot the boat kids by their tans!
Some much needed kid time. You can easily spot the boat kids by their tans!

The following day we got together again with the crew from “Anne Ahoi” and as the weather still hadn’t turned too bad be decided to take them to another nearby island for a snorkel. It wasn’t the best site but I managed to spear one of my favourite eating fish (Mutton Snapper), the skies were however starting to look very dramatic and to the accompaniment of rolling thunder and cracks of lightening we hastily upped anchor and ran back to the safety of Treasure Cay.

The lightening chasing our hasty retreat.
The lightening chasing our hasty retreat.

Halfway back the storm caught up with us. We were sailing well on just the head sail but as the first bit of cold air hit we quickly furled that as well and started the motors. Within a minute the wind had swung 180 degrees and picked up to 30+ knots, the anemometer showed gusts of 60kts but I suspect it was playing up. With the wind came the rain and the visibility dropped to about 20 meters, the perfectly benign day had suddenly turned to chaos. Whilst Stephan and I stayed up on the bridge, eyes straining to pick out the passage into safety the kids broke out the board games and lego below. At times like this the stability of a catamaran is just such a huge advantage, even with no sails up a monohull would be heeling quite dramatically which makes everything just feel so much worse.

The view aft as the storm catches up.
The view aft as the storm catches up.
Radar shows the storm closing in around us as we race back into Treasure Cay.
Radar shows the storm closing in around us as we race back into Treasure Cay.
Meanwhile down below...
Meanwhile down below…

Just as we reached the channel, which like so many entrances is quite  narrow, the visibility dropped to almost zero. Unwilling to risk the entrance without being able to at least see the channel markers we held off to see what the weather would do, if it abated we could go in, if not we’d have to head back out to clear water and wait it out. After 15 min the rain did drop off and we had a clear view of the channel but it wasn’t to last long. We made it in and minutes after dropping anchor the storm resumed with renewed intensity making us glad for the shelter of the enclosed bay. A charter catamaran behind us started to drag their anchor and was almost washed onto a sea wall by the time they’d started their engines to hold position. Given the crowded anchorage and high winds they were pretty much stuck in a nasty spot so we quickly loaded our spare anchor, chain and rhode into the dinghy and passed them a new anchor line to pull forward on.

The storm ended up staying with us for almost 2 days after which we finally retrieved the our spare anchoring equipment. Anne Ahoi meanwhile prepared to set off on their long journey back towards Europe. With a tooting of Conch Shell horns they departed and we too decided it was time to leave for pastures new.

 

Bimini & The Great Hammerhead Sharks

Finally we’ve cast off the dock lines and the voyages of discovery have started in earnest. It’s easy to see why some people spend years preparing to go cruising and just never leave. Preparations take forever and it doesn’t ever seem like you’re ever 100% ready to go. We’re probably 95% prepared, the boat is well stocked, all systems are running although our Raymarine electronics package (navigation equipment, plotter, radar, wind instruments, man over board etc) continues to have bugs despite hours spent by a tech looking over it. Our last boat had all Simrad equipment and we would change back in a heartbeat! Very underwhelmed by the Raymarine systems! The crossing from Florida to the Bahamas can be quite challenging. The gulfstream is a relatively strong current that travels Northwards at a rate of around 3 knots and can create some wicked sea state in an opposing wind so it’s important to avoid any Northerly winds. The Northerly flow also means you have to start further South and steer for a point well South of your final destination, otherwise there is a lot of back tracking against the current later on. We sailed down to Miami and overnighted near “No Name Harbour” which is a popular jump-off point for Bahamas bound yachts. We set off at 5am to time our arrival in Bimini around midday and make sure we’d have good visibility of the shifting sandbars around the harbour entrance. The starry skies gave way to the dawn at around 7:30am and we raised the sails but too little avail as there was barely a whisper of wind.

Dawn greats us with glassy conditions.
Dawn greats us with glassy conditions.

This was to be theme of the whole crossing and although it wasn’t our preference to have the motors running for the trip the flat calm seas made up for it. Apart from and a distant pod of dolphins and the many flying fish and Portuguese man-o-war jellyfish there was little to do but read a book and scan the horizon keeping an eye on the track of the big trade ships to whom we’re but a barnacle. It was all super relaxing until right in the middle of nowhere another yacht’s track crossed our own. Unbelievably he chose to cross 20m behind us, we yelled at him to give us some room as we had trolling lines out the back and proceeded to furiously wind our lines in. Cut lines averted we hailed him on the radio and a crazy French man came on the channel trying to tell us he had right of way despite him being the overtaking yacht and coming from our Port quarter which gives us double right of way! Guess the French sailing etiquette is much the same as their driving 😉 Eventually the deep blue gave way to the most intense aqua blue hues we’ve ever seen.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Negotiating the narrow fast flowing channel into North Bimini harbour was pretty straightforward. It would have been a much more daunting task if we had known how regularly yachts run aground there. Within hours exactly that happened and a beautiful sailing boat was stuck for a couple of hours awaiting the high tide. As I type this I can hear over the radio the call of another vessel touching bottom! After completing customs and immigration clearance we immediately sought out the local shark diving guys, who by handy coincidence were the owners of the dock we were tied up in. The water’s warming up now & this is the very end of the Great Hammerhead season so we booked in a dive guide who agreed to let us use our boat rather than a smaller vessel. That done we left the harbour to find an anchorage and start exploring the insanely clear waters around Bimini.

This is in 5m water depth!
First dives in the Bahamian waters.
First dives in the Bahamian waters.
Morning exploration.
Morning exploration.

Two days later was sharking day and after loading dive gear and suitably stinky chum onboard we headed out to try and find ourselves some Great Hammerheads. Onsite we immediately had the attention of a bunch of Nurse Sharks whose numbers swelled to around 30 once the scent was out. Nurses are a very safe shark to swim with owing to the lack of big teeth so the girls were immediately in the water and enjoying some shark time.

Sharks below Sandy Feet
Sharks below Sandy Feet
Natalie diving down to hang out with the Nurses
Natalie diving down to hang out with the Nurses

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Laura on the bottom with the Nurse Sharks.
Laura on the bottom with the Nurse Sharks.
As time went on the Nurses became more and more familiar to the point of getting quite cheeky.
As time went on the Nurses became more and more familiar to the point of getting quite cheeky.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt took about 2 hours but suddenly there they were, the unmistakable outlines of hammerheads approaching!

First sighting of a Hammer Head
First sighting of a Hammer Head

After a few minutes free diving with them we scrambled back to the boat to get our scuba gear on and spend some time on the bottom. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

As with most large sharks these guys were shy at first but curious and made increasingly closer passes to check us out. Holding your ground, staying quiet, calm and maintaining eye contact is enough for them to respect your space and keep on swimming by.
As with most large sharks these guys were shy at first but curious and made increasingly closer passes to check us out. Holding your ground, staying quiet, calm and maintaining eye contact is enough for them to respect your space and keep on swimming by.
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That is unless you have food and are withholding it! Then you need to take a proactive approach and guide the animal away.

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An hour later with our air and chum used up we reluctantly headed back to the surface with permanent grins that wouldn’t leave for hours afterwards. Diving with these animals is such a privilege, it’s so sad that their numbers are so severely depleted due to finning (Hammerheads are particularly targeted for their big fins) and we may well be the last generation to get to see them so readily. We will spend at least another week exploring the islands around Bimini before welcoming our first visitors onboard.

Our legend guide Robin from Bimini Big Game Club who works with the hammerheads all season.
Our legend guide Robin from Bimini Big Game Club who works with the hammerheads all season.

Florida Part 2

We’ve been back in Florida for a little over a month and it’s been a crazy busy time. The first priority has been to get our home ship-shape for the journeys ahead. Being slow learners we very much underestimated how long it would take to complete our preparations. Everything always takes twice as long to do on a boat, everyone knows that but we somehow manage to forget and then wonder where the time goes. Anyway we won’t bore you with details suffice to say we’ve done a lot. Apart from boat stuff we’ve been keeping our sanity (and delaying ourselves) with frequent side excursions. The main three have been: Exploring the Everglades, A trip to Crystal Springs on the West Coast to swim with Manatees and a visit to Kennedy Space Centre including watching a NASA rocket launch to put some satellites into space.

Better than a good pillow for sleeping well on a boat.
Better than a good pillow for sleeping well on a boat.
Changing the oil, with 3 diesels this ends up being a major exercise.
Changing the oil, with 3 diesels this ends up being a major exercise.
SUP'ing before breakfast at a local anchorage we've been going to every few days.
SUP’ing before breakfast at a local anchorage we’ve been going to every few days.

The Everglades are an amazing place, absolutely teeming with wildlife. We didn’t bother with any tours, you only need drive around with open eyes and you will find enough distractions to keep you from getting to any set destinations.

You don't need to look hard to find Gators in the Everglades.
You don’t need to look hard to find Gators in the Everglades.

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There is one place in Florida that is famous for swimming with Manatees: Crystal Springs. During winter the Manatees get cold and seek refuge in the warmer canals and rivers throughout Florida. We encounter them regularly here in Fort Lauderale but the water is never very clear and they are hard to find. Crystal Springs is aptly descriptive with crystal clear fresh water springs that the Manatees seem to relish. The week before we got there they had to close certain areas as up to 800 individuals were packed into very narrow canals. The week we were there the water got warm and they had pretty much all moved out! We did find some and had some brief encounters but it was not the Manatee fest we were expecting. Nevertheless it’s an amazing area and we had a great time exploring it with a hire boat.

On the lookout and ready to get in with Manatees.
On the lookout and ready to get in with Manatees.
The best encounter we had was the first but the water in that area was so murky that you almost had to be on top of it so see it.
The best encounter we had was the first but the water in that area was so murky that you almost had to be on top of it so see it.
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Crystal River is an amazing place to live! At times this scene would be packed full of Manatees.
An Osprey chick waiting for a feed from Mum.
An Osprey chick waiting for a feed from Mum.
Probably the most bizarre thing we saw in the area was "Monkey Island" a tiny island in the river that doesn't house any monkeys but does have a population of lesser apes!
Probably the most bizarre thing we saw in the area was “Monkey Island” a tiny island in the river that doesn’t house any monkeys but does have a population of lesser apes!
Watching the wildlife fly by!
Watching the wildlife fly by!

The last foray we made was to Kennedy Space Centre. We timed this visit to coincide with a rocket launch to put some more junk into orbit around earth. The launch was completely surreal and being a fair distance away the sound took a long time to reach us.

Waiting for launch at 10:45pm. We were told to go early to get a good viewing place, only waited about 4 hours :)
Waiting for launch at 10:45pm. We were told to go early to get a good viewing place, only waited about 4 hours :)
T minus 1 minute...
T minus 1 minute…
Ignition
Ignition
And she's away, EPIC stuff!!!
And she’s away, EPIC stuff!!!
Good luck out there.
Good luck out there.

The space centre is somewhere everyone should try and visit someday. What those men and women of NASA accomplished almost 40 years ago is just insane!

Just as we arrived a fighter jet was cutting up the sky which made for a cool photo.
Just as we arrived a fighter jet was cutting up the sky which made for a cool photo.
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A lot of history was made in this building

 

Mission Control as it was in 1968
Mission Control as it was in 1968
Still the most powerful thing ever built by man.
Still the most powerful thing ever built by man.

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The girls having a chat with a retired astronaut.
The girls having a chat with a retired astronaut.

And as usual we found some wildlife!OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Horseshoe Crabs are one of the strangest things we've seen!
Horseshoe Crabs are one of the strangest things we’ve seen!

And so our time in Florida draws to a close. The boat is ready and we’re more than ready to move on to the islands across the Gulfstream. In the next few days we will have sailed to Miami and started the passage to the Bahamas.

Sandy Feet with her make-up on.
Sandy Feet with her make-up on.

 

 

So you know how to sail right??

“You guys must be really experienced sailors?” is usually the thing anyone says when we talk about our upcoming plans to live on a boat and go exploring for a few years.

“Not really” is the honest answer but then again we’re not total beginners either, so here is where we’re at:

The dream was started by a book and a boat show. The book was called An Embarrassment of Mangoes and was about an older Canadian couple who spent a couple of years sailing from their home to the Caribbean and back. It’s a good read, full of sunsets and Gin and Tonics (and Mangoes). Around the same time as finishing the book we went to the Fremantle Boat Show and got onboard the first catamaran we laid eyes on. Sitting on the tramps looking at the oily water in the harbour sealed the deal, we just felt there was no other place we’d rather be than on a boat. That kicked off a 5 year plan to learn to sail and save enough money to live on a boat for a few years after selling our house.

We started by buying a Mirror dinghy. They are a funny little boat, built of thin plywood from kits, they were made hugely popular in the 60’s when the Mirror newspaper launched a competition for someone to design a boat that the common man could build in his shed and be raced competitively. The winner was a boat that would fit on a roofrack but could take 2-3 adults and had all the sails and adjustments of a big yacht including a jib and spinnaker. We found our mirror in the newspaper, a 1973 built number with original sails in mint condition. None of the proper rigging was in place so it’s quite possible she was never really sailed properly before we got her! The guy I bought it from had had her in his shed for quite a few years. He tried to sail her once but the 3mm chord that he had attached to the boom as a main sheet burned into his hand so he just rowed her around. Had he known the main sheet is usually 8mm rope rigged in a 3:1 pulley system he might’ve had more fun with her! I almost got into the middle of a domestic between the seller and his gun wielding teenage son but that is a whole other story. His biggest selling point on the boat was that it was painted with rust proof paint…. ah yeah it’s a plywood boat, anyway done deal.

Preparing for another family mission with the trusty Mirror
Preparing for another family mission with the trusty Mirror

We had lots of great times on that mirror, sailing on the Swan River for picknicks, out to Penguin Island for a snorkel or around one of the great Estuaries down South. It was our time with the dinghy that probably taught us the most about how to actually sail a boat.

Our newly born company had an office in Hillarys Marina, a place to dream whilst enviously watching other boats heading out for a sail while we navigated our way through the shark infested business world. During our lunchtime strolls down the docks we became acquainted with many of the local boat owners including the resident sailing instructor. Knowing our plans he approached us one day and offered to show us a boat that had just come onto the market and would be an ideal keel boat to continue our learning on. Shortly after “Bunch” was ours, a UFO 34 she was a 80’s era boat, known for seaworthiness and a forgiving nature. Many of her sisters have circumnavigated and braved some of the wildest seas. She was a perfect step for us, just far enough outside our comfort zone to keep us focused but easy to sail and handle with just a crew of two (plus two slightly less enthusiastic junior crew). She also came pre scratched and dented so we didn’t have to worry about being precious with her. Bunch was great for us and we spent many pleasant hours sailing from Hillarys down the coast.

Bunch1

Unfortunately she wasn’t particularly well laid out for a family of four and there was an ever present smell of diesel that we could never quite shake despite the many litres of cleaning fluids, de-greasers, smelly candles, etc we tried. She was not a boat the family could take away on any extended overnight trips without it feeling like camping in a garage.

Our final boat in this chapter was really the result of a radical impulse buy, born out of frustration (we had been trying to buy a catamaran but couldn’t get a pen) and a fantastic deal. The combination of a high Aussie dollar and depressed European economy presented an opportunity to buy a new French built boat at an incredibly good price. The chaos of selling our company that we’d built over the last 5 years slightly overshadowed the excitement of being lucky enough to buy a new boat but we’ll never forget the day we stood outside the Fremantle docks loading area, peering through a 3m high chain link fence at the shrink wrapped hull shaped object that was to be “Sandy Feet”.

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Six weeks on a cargo ship from France and a short truck ride from Fremantle to South Perth and Sandy Feet is about to be unwrapped.

A few days later we were a little more sombre, looking at the now unwrapped hull towering above our heads and wondering if we’d bitten off more than we could chew. At 45ft or 13m long and 4.5m wide with a mast whose top is 23m above the water this is not a small boat!

Sandy Feet with Keel on and Rudder being fitted.
Sandy Feet with Keel on and Rudder being fitted.

After initially getting spooked at the size we figured it was best not to think about it and from that day refused any thoughts about whether we could handle such a large boat with just the two of us. As it turned out we were right not to worry, the Beneteau 45 is an incredibly well laid out boat with technology that actually made her easier to sail than Bunch. The biggest challenge was getting over the psychological factor of having a brand new boat without a scratch on her.

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In the water for the very first time and waiting for the mast.

I soon overcame that by putting a ding in her on entering the dock for the second time and clipping a dock cleat (which was promptly moved to a new location). Our dock is easily the biggest challenge as we have to reverse into it and the afternoon seabreeze blows across the bow making it necessary to come in hot with lots of speed to maintain steerage. Finally we had a boat to start learning more cruising skills rather than just sailing. Navigation, night sailing, anchoring and mooring, launching and retrieving the dinghy, etc etc. We were away as much as we could squeeze in between running a crazy busy company and running an equally crazy busy family.

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With a very effective Auto Pilot that can be run off your iPhone this has got to be one of the most relaxing boats to sail.

I am typing this whilst sitting on Sandy Feet with whiskey in hand. We love her now as much as the first heady days where we had to keep pinching ourselves to believe this was our boat. Sadly the time has come to continue our boat evolution and move onto the boat that started the dream so now Sandy Feet is for sale and we spend a great deal of time surfing boat brokerage sites in the US, looking for our next boat, a 40-50ft Catamaran.

So whilst by salty sea dog standards we are still very much land lubbers, we’d like to think we have amassed enough experience to keep us safe while we continue to learn. Sailing and Cruising is one of those things where you will never stop learning but it’s also one of those thing where a good dose of common sense will see you through most situations and as long as your prepared to stay within your limits then the risks are as manageable as everyday life on land.

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